Iceland: Cold, Beautiful & Stunning Skin!

My husband and I recently went to Iceland to see the Northern Lights and to soak in the Blue Lagoon.  The lagoon is man-made and is fed by the water output of the nearby geothermal power plant and is renewed every two days. Superheated water is vented from the ground near a lava flow and used to run turbines that generate electricity. After going through the turbines, the steam and hot water passes through a heat exchanger to provide heat for a municipal water heating system. Then the water is fed into the lagoon for recreational and medicinal users to bathe in.

Although it doesn't sound very lovely soaking in the run off from the local power plant, it is in fact amazing.  The water smells a bit funky, but thats from the natural sulphur.  Sulphur might be a bit stinky, but it's amazing for your skin, especially acnaeic skin.

Throughout the Blue Lagoon there are wooden boxes filled with natural silica white mud.  As you look around at everyone with their white masks its hard not to laugh out loud.  The funny thing is that they will have the last laugh as this mud is AMAZING!

Its so amazing that yours truly broke the rules and did take some home.  A carefully hidden lunch baggie and quick hands were all I needed.  Now I can apply this smelly mud in the privacy of my own home.  After using it my breakout was banished and my skin is extremely smooth.  I think my skin tone is more even as well, but that might just be my mind playing tricks.

If you're thinking of going to Iceland then you should definitely check out the Blue Lagoon.  Even if you're not going you can purchase the mud mask from the Blue Lagoon web store.  The bottled mud mask isn't nearly as smelly as the stuff from the box, but it is a bit pricey (65 euros).

The one major disappointment with the bottled mask is that it contains a LOT of parabens.  Parabens are preservatives and they have been found in breast cancer tumors.  There are natural preservatives that can be used, but parabens are cheap and sorry, but for 65 euros then can more than afford to use something better.  they could also sell it in a dry form, which would inhibit the growth of anything funky and then it could be mixed with water on demand to create a mask.

Hmmm...maybe I should buy this stuff in bulk and add it to my collection of skincare products...

Ingredients List for Blue Lagoons Silica Mask:  Sea water/maris aqua (Blue Lagoon geothermal seawater), silica/silt (Blue Lagoon silica mud), ethoxydiglycol oleate, cetearyl isononanoate, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben.

Cutting, Tying and Drying Lavender

I like to use my own lavender in the beauty products that I make as well as for cooking. Since I use no pesticides or fertilizers in my garden I know that it's safe. Lavender is great for the garden, it invites bees and keeps away invasive pests such as aphids. If you can grow your own lavender you definitely should.

Lavender is harvested just as the buds are beginning to open. Unfortunately this year I was away for a month, and London had very hot and dry weather. My lavender was a bit overdue by the time I got home, but there was still plenty that I could use.

1. The first step is to gather the flower stems into bunches and cut them.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. Next, strip off the leaves and pull out any bad stems.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. Separate the stems into short, medium and long piles.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Line up the flower heads and tie into bunches. You should tie directly under the flower heads as well as several inches down the stems.
   
   
5. Dip the tied flowers into slightly soapy, cold, water, I use a non-toxic Ecover. Then rinse them under water and blot dry with paper toweling.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
6. Hang to dry. Note that after a week or so you will have to retie the strings, because the stems will shrink a bit as they dry
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

In about a month the flowers will be dry enough to start using. There are many uses for lavender and many recipes out on the web. I use them in my lavender and rose body scrub, I grind them into salt and sprinkle over boiled potatoes and simmer them in milk for a bed time treat.

The Big "C"

I have been quiet lately, because life has been hectic. The holidays are here and shopping, traveling and spending time with loved ones is what's on most people's minds. My loved ones, my brother in particular, has been on my mind.  He has stage III malignant melanoma and we're all trying our best to help him deal with his feelings and get as healthy as he can.

Today's blog post is dedicated to my brother. I've learned more about skin cancer in the last month than I ever learned in school. An esthetician is taught to refer a client to a dermatologist if something looks like it might be cancerous and you can't refer someone without knowing the signs. The best prevention for skin cancer is being aware of how to protect your skin. The earlier skin cancer is caught,  the better off you are, as it is a serious killer if kept unchecked.

These tips are straight from the CDC and they deal with how to protect your skin from the sun:

The CDC recommends easy options for protection from UV radiation:

• Seek shade, especially during midday hours. 
• Wear clothing to protect exposed skin. 
• Wear a hat with a wide brim to shade the face, head, ears, and neck. 
• Wear sunglasses that wrap around and block as close to 100% of both UVA and UVB rays as possible. 
• Use sunscreen with sun protective factor (SPF) 15 or higher, and both UVA and UVB protection. 
• Avoid indoor tanning.

Those are great tips for sure, but be aware that not all skin cancer comes from UV radiation.  My brother's didn't, his is due to a welding burn that happened over 18 years ago.  A tiny spark got inside of his boot, this tiny burn took a long time to heal and when it did it left behind a small mark.  Now fast forward about 17.5 years and my brother notices that this tiny dot is now a bit bigger in size, but not much and it's not discolored or anything so he just attributes it to age, like a really light liver spot or the original mark stretching a bit.  He has really bad eye site and doesn't often look at his ankle so he isn't really sure how long it has looked like that.  A couple of months later and he feels a small bump.  That sets off alarms and he goes into the doctor. Fast forward another couple of months and all the testing has led to the diagnosis of stage III malignant melanoma.

Skin cancer can be caused by over exposure to UV rays, but it can also be caused by other things such as these:

• Previous skin cancer 
• Previous radiotherapy treatment 
• Lowered immunity 
• Exposure to chemicals 
• Genetic conditions
• Bad burns (there are arguments against this, but I tend to believe it)
• Skin grafts (there are arguments against this, but I tend to believe it)

According to the National Cancer Institute Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer in the United States. Each year, more than 68,000 Americans are diagnosed with melanoma, and another 48,000 are diagnosed with an early form of the disease that involves only the top layer of skin. 

When it comes to looking out for skin cancer check your feet, between your toes and under your nails as well as your ears (not places we often look).  In men, it’s often found on the skin on the head, on the neck, or between the shoulders and the hips.  In women, it’s often found on the skin on the lower legs or between the shoulders and the hips.  We seem to have this idea that cancer is going to look like some big, scary mole, but it doesn't start out that way.

I won't post any scary pictures, you can Google them for yourself.  This web site has a slideshow of what cancer can look like that will scare the bejesus out of you, but if you think something might be off when it comes to your skin you might want to take a look at it.  I will, however, describe some of the things that would make you want to visit your doctor.

The single most important feature that may signal the presence of a skin cancer is a new, changing, enlarging skin growth that persists. Look for changes in color, size, thickness and surface texture of a mole or other suspicious skin lesions. Sores that won't heal may also indicate cancerous or precancerous conditions of the skin that need attention. Examine your skin once a month for any suspicious changes. Not all skin cancers are symptomatic, many are painless. Early treatment is critical. (UCSF School of Medicine)  In a nutshell if anything seems off or different, and not in a good way, just talk to your doctor!

If you're wondering what happens when you are diagnosed with skin cancer...well it all depends.  The severity of the cancer that you have will be described in stages.  Understanding staging is an enormous task in and of itself, because they are many aspects to determining your stage.

The TNM staging system is done first:  

• The T indicates the size of the tumor 
• The N shows whether the cancer has spread to the lymph nodes 
• The M shows whether the cancer has spread to another part of the body (metastasis)

Once the TNM categories (types) have all been decided, the information is put together to give a number stage of 0 to 4:

• Stage 0 - the cancer is only in the top layer of skin (the epidermis) 
• Stage 1 - the cancer is 2cm or less across and has not spread 
• Stage 2 - the cancer is more than 2cm across and has not spread 
• Stage 3 - the cancer has spread to the tissues under the skin and possibly to nearby lymph node
• Stage 4 - the cancer has spread to another part of the body

In a nutshell, the higher the number, the worse off you are.

Cancer is different for everyone so no matter what stage you're in only you can decide how you want to handle it.  There are so many different opinions, even for treatments that have been around a very long time.  Once you start discussing anything holistic you will find that some doctors say that you should try anything that you feel will help as long as you follow the standard procedures and others will tell you that anything holistic is a waste of time..  Sometimes the information overload will be overwhelming.  Take a deep breathe, try to relax and carry on.

Some of the holistic treatments that I, and others, feel merit some research are the following:

• Cut out sugar.  Cancer loves sugar and every doctor will tell you this.
• Detox your body immediately.  Eliminate all dairy, sugar and processed foods.  Become a vegetarian, eat organic, eat foods that naturally detox the body.  Leafy green vegetables, flax seed, and green tea are just some of them.  
• Coffee isn't just for drinking when you're battling cancer.  Do coffee enemas, they are excellent for detoxing the liver.
• Exercise your body and your mind.  You want to be in top physical condition when you start your battle with cancer and you also need to be mentally prepared.  Take time out to read and view things for pleasure.  Don't obsess about your prognosis, stress is definitely a bad thing.
• Boost your immune system.  Most of the treatments for later stage skin cancer is going to wreak havoc on your immune system, so get it as healthy as you can.  A raw food diet, using a blender to make smoothies or just eating them raw is best as cooking destroys the immune building properties that you need.  There are too many foods that naturally build your immune system to list, but carrots, cabbage, green asparagus, broccoli, red beets (i.e. beetroot), beet tops, cauliflower and related vegetables are amongst them.  Peppers also have cancer fighting substances and the spice turmeric can be added as well. 
• Look into vitamin C IV drips.  I've read so many articles from people studying and treating cancer with vitamin C that it can't be ignored.  It's not cheap, it's more effective if it's taken intravenously and insurance is not going to cover it.  This is something that you'll have to pay for on your own.  Read about it and decide if it is for you.
• If you live in a state where medical marijuana is legal look into hemp oil, which contains cannabinoids. Cannabinoids are a group of 21-carbon–containing terpenophenolic compounds produced uniquely by Cannabis sativa and Cannabis indica species (in laymen's terms...pot).  Cannabinoids may cause antitumor effects by various mechanisms, including induction of cell death, inhibition of cell growth, and inhibition of tumor angiogenesis invasion and metastasis. (this is from the National Cancer Institute).  Once again some will say that it works and others will say that it doesn't.  It's your call to decide what you want to do.

So now you know a little bit more about skin cancer (hopefully). Feel free to pass this information on and to add to it if you'd like.  

If you have a personal story with cancer and want to share, go for it.  I created a Facebook page to share my brother's experience with others and I also created a web site to raise funds for his treatments. Don't be ashamed to ask for help. People out there empathize with you and you are not alone.

   

Steps to Effectively Control Rosacea

Rosacea (pronounced roh-ZAY-sha) is a common but poorly understood disorder of the facial skin that is estimated to affect well over 14 million Americans. Rosacea causes redness and pimples on the nose, cheeks, chin, and forehead. The redness may come and go. People sometimes call rosacea "adult acne" because it can cause outbreaks that look like acne. It can also cause burning and soreness in the eyes and eyelids. While the cause of rosacea is unknown and there is no cure, there are treatments that can control the signs and symptoms of this disorder. Only a doctor can diagnose rosacea, but an esthetician can help you to control it.

Steps to effectively control rosacea: 

• Improve Desquamation (shedding of the outer layers of the skin): This can be done through gentle exfoliating treatments that will remove surface build-up without causing irritation and increasing cell turnover.


• Control inflammation and redness: The daily care regimen should be customized to include anti-inflammatory ingredients that will combat redness and discomfort. Topical ingredients that are effective in reducing the appearance of redness are often anti-inflammatory agents that have an effect on microcapillary function. Many work by interrupting the inflammatory process.


• Control Excessive Dryness: Products must contain humectant ingredients to draw moisture to the epidermis and occlusive ingredients to hold it in.


• Decrease Possible Bacterial Factors: Utilizing products containing multifaceted ingredients, such as salicylic and azelaic acids, will help to control both bacteria and inflammation. It is important to avoid more aggressive antibacterial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, which may cause further inflammation.


• Protect from UV exposure: Everyone should be using a broad-spectrum SPF of 15 or greater every day on any exposed skin. Studies suggest that the inflammation associated with chronic photo damage significantly contributes to roacea. If the skin is exposed to UV rays on a daily basis this will lead to an increase in the production of nitric oxide and other free radicals within the skin cells. An increased production of these offenders can lead to vasodilation and broken capillaries. You should always use products that offer protection from long an short wave UVA rays as well as UVB rays. Always allow sun protection to absorb 20 minutes before to exposure. Reapply after two hours of sun exposure and repeat every two hours as needed.

Review: Bio Oil – Coming Soon

I recently received a sample of Bio Oil from a friend. Bio Oil gets recommended by pharmacists, but does it really work?

Bio Oil claims that it is good for aging and damaged skin conditions. It can be applied to the face (I wouldn't recommend this since it contains Paraffinum Liquidum) and body, as it can remove acne scars, pimple marks, and even stretch marks.

I definitely have no shortage of age spots and although I don't have any acne scars, I'm somewhat clumsy and have acquired some pigmentation due to a burn as well as a cut on my forearm.

Since I find it hard to believe that one oil can do all of this I've decided to put it to the test. Below are my "before" shots, taken about 2 weeks ago. I will have a full review, as well as my "after" shots in another 2 weeks.

Although Bio Oil recommends using 2x daily for 3 months, I've decided I will publish my results after using 2x daily for one month. If there is no improvement after 30 days, it's highly unlikely there will be any improvement, other than the skins natural healing, after 90 days.

Enjoy!

Age Spot:

Cut To Forearm:

Burn On Wrist:

Steps to Effectively Control Acne Breakouts

Here is some general information on acne and how to control breakouts. Now I am not a doctor so my advice is not the end all, be all, but it gives you a good place to start. I also have a great DIY acne mask that you can try.

• Control abnormal keratinization and pore blockage (exfoliate): The initial trigger in the production of acne papules is the increased adherence of keratinocytes to the follicle wall and increased sebum production, resulting in a plugged pore. Skin cells often do not shed enough on their own; creating a buildup of surface cells that traps oil and bacteria. Using gentle peeling agents that control bacteria and oil production as well as loosen impacted stratum corneum cells allows treatment products to penetrate more effectively. Using a daily care product with low level retinol in conjunction with anti-inflammatory exfoliating treatments allows for better skin function and improved cell turnover rates with minimal irritation.

• Control sebum (oil) production: In acne-prone skin, increased sebum and P. acnes bacteria build up behind the plug and can trigger an inflammatory response. It is important to understand that over-drying the skin, even if it is oily, will cause the skin to compensate by producing an excessive amount of sebum. This will cause even more breakouts. Natural astringents that also moisturize will avoid this over-production of sebum.

• Decrease P. acnes proliferation: Topical oxygen sources, such as benzoyl peroxide and hydrogen peroxide, effectively deliver oxygen to the follicle, killing the anaerobic bacteria. Increasing cell turnover and gentle exfoliation, ensures that P. acnes will not be trapped in a deoxygenated environment and allowed to proliferate.

• Control inflammation: Inflammation is both a cause and result of acne. When the number of P. acnes increases sebum is broken down into irritating free fatty acids which stimulate an immune response. White blood cells weaken the follicular wall, resulting in rupture and increased inflammation. Utilizing anti-inflammatory topical ingredients will soothe current irritation and help to avoid future inflammation. 

Some common and effective sebum controlling ingredients are: salicylic acid, ginger root, green burnet root, licorice root, cucumber extract and cinnamon bark. In addition there are several beneficial oils important in the treatment of acne as they contain very helpful naturally derived fatty acids. These include, but are not limited to borage seed oil, grape seed oil and essential wheat germ oil.

Bollocks to Boots: London Skincare Shopping

The London trip went smashingly well.  I spent a lot of time just wandering the city and looking for stores that carry beauty supplies.  It was quite a learning experience and a bit of cultural shock.  I spoke to people, compared ingredients in products, compared prices and even tried something new.

I couldn't throw a stick without hitting a Boots pharmacy, but unfortunately their product line was mostly horrendous. Their Botanics line has beautiful packaging and boasts about organic ingredients, but I also found that some of the line included parabens (toxic chemicals used for preservation).  In all fairness to Boots they do have a decent selection online and some stores carry the Weleda brand, I just couldn't find anything decent within their actual stores and I went into about 10 of them throughout London.  Let's face it when you're on vacation you need to get your hands on something quickly, not order it over the Internet.

A friend tipped me off to the So Organic shop in Greenwich, which was AMAZING.  They carry a large selection of excellent products and also provide skin care services such as facials.  My number one rule is that if you can't find anything good, go to an organic or natural store.  Guaranteed you'll be able to find cleansers without sodium laureth sulfate, which I despise for it's natural oil stripping properties.  So Organic also sells their products online for anyone wanting to check their selection.  Unfortunately, they do not currently ship outside of Europe so if you see something you like and you live in the U.S., you'll have to buy it elsewhere.

Another rule of thumb if you're having difficulty finding a good product while traveling is to check out skin care lines for babies or children.  As a general rule these will be milder and contain less chemicals.  My favorite line in London is the Weleda brand.  They have excellent ingredients and can be found in many stores, even Boots.

I decided to stop by a Jo Malone store to see what all the fuss was about.  They had excellent smelling products, but I wasn't blown away by the ingredients list.  Once again sodium laureth sulfate was found in many of the cleansers and some contained parabens.  I did, however, sample some excellent smelling body lotions.  My favorite was the Blue Agava & Cacao Body Crème, which smelled amazing and the Lime Basil & Mandarin was delicious smelling too.

While walking around the Camden Market I found a booth that offered fish pedicures.  Fish pedicures are performed by Garra Rufa a.k.a. doctor fish.  You emerge your feet into a bath filled with them and they nibble away at your dead skin.  I had been reading about this for years, but in San Francisco this service cannot be found.  Although it was fun feeling little fish nibbling at my feet I didn't really notice any improvement.  I have pretty decent feet to begin with so maybe it's only noticeable on someone who has really dry and cracked feet.  It was only 8 pounds for 15 minutes and even though I didn't find it effective the experience was fun.

Mineral Makeup Miracle

Many years ago a friend of mine who owns a spa turned me onto mineral makeup. I had been complaining about not wearing makeup, because my skin was breaking out, and it just felt disgusting after wearing liquid base for a couple of hours. She sat me down, applied GloLoose base and asked me to wear it for a day and see how I felt. I instantly fell in love and I haven't looked back since.

Why mineral makeup? Several reasons. The coverage is amazing. I've found nothing else that covers my leopard spots (how I jokingly refer to my hyperpigmentation), it doesn't settle into my wrinkles after a couple of hours like every liquid or other powdered base that I've tried, my skin doesn't feel greasy after a couple of hours and the brand I use provides sunscreen protection as well.

There are some ingredients to be aware of when looking for mineral makeup.  If it contains talc or cornstarch don't even bother.  These ingredients can clog pores, asphyxiate the skin and cause breakouts.  Cornstarch isn't a mineral so why should it be in mineral makeup!  It's a cheap filler and can give skin a less oily appearance, but so does blotting with a tissue and that's much safer.

Another biggie on the no list are parabens.  Parabens are used as a preservative and are considered toxic.  I must confess, however, my favorite mineral makeup does contain parabens.  It also contains natural ingredients such as green tea and several vitamins so it's not 100% mineral.  If any ingredients in your mineral makeup have a name ending with paraben, then it contains them.

The last ingredient that people with sensitive or acneic skin may want to avoid is bismuth oxychloride, which is added to cosmetics to give a dewy or glowing appearance.  Once again, my favorite mineral makeup contains it, but it's never caused any issues with my skin and I love the dewy appearance that it gives.  Matte makeup on anyone with fine lines or aging skin does not look so good (unless you care to resemble Baby Jane).

Some of the positive ingredients in mineral makeup are:  titanium dioxide (sunscreen), zinc dioxide (sunscreen, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial) and mica (gives a creamy smooth feel).  These ingredients are safe as long as they are not micronized, which would allow them to penetrate the skin, where they are considered toxic.

When you're new to mineral makeup you may need to practice a bit to get it right.  First you need to make sure the color is right for your skin.  This can be done through a consultation at a store/salon/spa that offers mineral makeup or by trial and error.  If you're going to go it alone then apply the makeup to your jawline and check to make sure that it blends in with your skin tone in natural light.  Too light and you'll look ghostly and too dark will make you look like you've just had a bad spray tan.

Once you've got a good color match use a concealer brush to cover up any spots, dark circles or blemishes.  You'll be amazed at the coverage you get with a tiny amount.  You should apply your concealer first, then the base and concealer again if necessary, followed by another coat of base.  The more coats the heavier the coverage so you'll have to experiment to find your "best" look.  If you're combating dark circles you should try a yellowish tone, for blemishes or redness go with a green based tone and to combat bruises or a dull complexion go with a peachy color.  The best bet is to buy a small amount of mineral makeup in your concealer color and a larger jar for your overall complexion.

There are a variety of brushes that you can use, but here are some basics.  Use a synthetic flat brush for the concealer or make it easy on yourself and just buy a brush that's labeled concealer (it will be synthetic).  You can use a rounded kabuki brush for your base (lighter coverage) or a flat kabuki (heavier coverage).  The kabuki brush can be either synthetic or natural.  I prefer a natural brush myself as I find it holds the powder better and it creates less of a mess.

Tap some of the powder base into the cap and dip your brush into it, tapping off any excess powder.  Touch the brush to the face starting at the top of the forehead along the hair line and buff the mineral makeup into the skin in a circular motion. Repeat this all over the face from top to bottom. Study your face for even coverage and repeat application if necessary.  I find that 2 applications works great for me, depending on your skin you may use more or less.

If you're using a mineral blush apply in the same buffing method, but start from the area closest to your ear and buff outward towards the apples of your cheeks.  This is useful if you're new to mineral makeup and not sure how much to use.  When I first started with mineral blush I would buff it into the apples of my cheeks and move backward, but unfortunately I ended up looking like a circus clown and rubbing most of it off with a tissue.

If you're using mineral eyeshadow then remember less is more.  The pigments in mineral makeup can be very intense.  You should apply it in the same manner as any other eyeshadow, just remembering to tap off any excess powder and start out with less than you normally would.

The last, and I think the most important, step in applying mineral makeup is to set the powder.  Eventually your skins oils will help to set the makeup and reduce the powdery appearance, but I don't have the time or patience for that.  If you feel that your skin looks too shiny after applying your setting spray you can use a tissue and blot the excess.  You can purchase a setting spray or make one on your own.  There are a variety of them out on the market, but why pay $10+ for a product that is mostly water.  To make your own use distilled water (can be found in most grocery stores) and use a bottle that provides a very fine mist.  You can add ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (excellent for moisturizing and carried at many natural food stores or purchased online), or a small amount of an essential oil (I love carrot seed for moisturizing). 

I am a huge fan of mineral makeup and after giving it a try you may be too.

When Free Isn't Really Free

Today I received an email for a free mineral makeup "discovery kit". Of course it contained the word free so I was instantly intrigued. Upon further inspection it turned out to be a "not really free" situation. One that's common in the cosmetic industries "club" programs. You know, the type of club where you're billed every 30 days to continue receiving the product.  Sometimes in our excitement we miss the part of the offer that states you will be enrolled in a club and just see "free".

Today's not really free promotion was brought to me by the folks over at The Glow Beauty Lounge and it was for the Raw Minerals discovery kit.  I've never tried the product so I can't speak to it's greatness, but I never trust any promotion that automatically enrolls me into a "club" that bills me every 30 days.

The "Internet Advertised Offers" on The Glow Beauty Lounge site are all "club" type offers.  I had received one awhile back for another mineral makeup "Glow Minerals", which was suspiciously the same as the Raw Minerals deal I received today (same free gift of cheap brushes and all). 


I am definitely a huge fan of mineral makeup.  Not only as a 40+ year old woman who wants to look natural and nice, but also as an esthetician who takes ingredients and the health of the skin into consideration as well.  In the next several weeks I will post several articles with regards to applying mineral makeup correctly, reviews of mineral makeup and a DIY for creating a hydrating mist that does double-duty when used as a setting spray for mineral makeup.

If I come across free offers in regards to mineral makeup I'll post that as well.....

Sleep Now

Since I'm feeling extremely tired, why not an article on how important sleep is to your skin.


http://articles.latimes.com/2009/nov/08/image/ig-beautysleep8

Sunny Days Ahead Require Sunscreen

While I was hiking in the beautiful hills of Berkley yesterday it crossed my mind that a post on sunscreens would be appropriate. Everyone should wear a sunscreen every day. It doesn't matter if you're light skinned, dark skinned or work inside all day. Yes, those fluorescent light bulbs at work emit UV rays!

I always stress the importance of sunscreen to my clients, especially those combating pigmentation issues. I use hydrator plus SPF 25 from PCA for my personal sunscreen (review is forthcoming), but I have tried many different varieties in the past and I often found that I would still get burned, even after slathering on sunscreen and never knew why.

A friend pointed me to this site about 2 years ago and according to their research ” 3 of 5 brand-name sunscreens either don’t protect skin from sun damage or contain hazardous chemicals — or both . Hundreds of all-day moisturizers advertise SPF protection, but 1 in 5 provides poor shielding from harmful UVA rays or breaks down in UV radiation “ . The FDA does not regulate sunscreens so basically they can promise whatever they want.

Now before you hop over there and start investigating the brand you’re currently using keep a couple of things in mind. The safest sunscreens are those that contain natural ingredients, but they don’t always feel or look nice (you could rub mud onto your face for protection, but how would that look). Even though your sunscreen may score in the “medium hazard” such as mine does, it doesn’t necessarily mean you’re going to contract cancer or die from using it (my personal opinion). If your current sunscreen scores in the “not recommended” category you might want to start shopping around for something different.

When I’m finished with my current sunscreen I think I’ll give the Devita Daily Solar Protection Moisturizer or the SanRe Organic Skinfood - Supple Sunshine creams a go.

How to Apply Sunscreen:

Everyone knows you’re supposed to use it, but many of us don’t know how to properly apply it. Here’s how:

• Apply your sunscreen 30 minutes before going out in the sun. This gives the ingredients time to attach to the skin.
  
• Use enough so the skin does appear slightly whitish and then allow time for it to absorb into the skin.
  
• Reapply every 2 hours while exposed to UV rays. If you’re sweating quite a bit or involved in any activity such as swimming, where the sunscreen will be washed away, then please apply more often.
  

One last piece of advice is that you’re more likely to get sunburned when the sun's rays are the most intense. That's between 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Causes and Cures for Hyperpigmentation

Types and causes of hyperpigmentation:

• UV-Induced Hyperpigmentation:  Can be caused by overexposure to sun, tanning beds, fluorescent and ambient lighting.  This type of hyperpigmentation usually presents as diffuse spots or macules that are evenly distributed around the face.
  
  
• Hormonally Induced Hyperpigmentation:  Any hormone fluctuations can induce hyperpigmentation.  Greek for "a black spot", melasma or pregnancy mask, is commonly associated with a fluctuation of hormones (pregnancy, oral contraceptives, thyroid dysfunction, menopause or hormone replacement therapy) and will worsen with UV exposure.  It appears as large patches with jagged borders typically around the jaw line, upper lip, cheeks and forehead.
  
  
• Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation:  Pigment deposited as a result of surface irritation, inflammation and/or abrasion of the epidermis.  It is characterized by darkened areas of the sites of the trauma.  Some common causes of this type of hyperpigmentation are:  acne, dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, bug bites, ingrown hairs from shaving or an overall darkening of the shaved area, flexural friction (darkening of knees and elbows), clothing friction (associated with ill-fitting undergarments) and allergies (caused by manipulations of the nose, which result in a line of pigment across the bridge of the nose).
  

Steps for lifting hyperpigmentation:

• Gentle exfoliation:  The closer pigment lies to the surface of the skin, the darker it appears to the naked eye.  Many are fooled into thinking that the problem has been corrected after one treatment of microdermabrasion or one superficial peel, because pigment will appear lighter to the naked eye.  With natural cell turnover, it is only a matter of time before this pigment will rise to the surface and redeposit, making the area dark once again.  Using gentle peeling agents that do not cause undue trauma to the skin in conjunction with melanogenesis inhibitors is a more effective treatment path than simple exfoliation.
  
  
• Increase cell turnover:  It is helpful to use topical agents that help to increase the skin cell turnover rate.  A group of ingredients that are quite effective at this are the retinoids.  This family of vitamin A derivatives helps to increase cellular proliferation and turnover, bringing healthy cells to the surface more quickly.  Some of the more popular retinoids (e.g. Retin-A®) can be irritating to some skin types and actually create more hyperpigmentation. A safer bet is retinol as it is a gentler vitamin A derivative that is very effective, yet non-irritating at lower percentages.  Using a daily care product with low level retinol is very helpful in the battle against hyperpigmentation.  The use of superficial peels helps to not only remove the darkened surface cells, but also allows for better skin function and improved cell turnover rates.
  
  
• Inhibit Melanogenesis:  It is recommended to use melanogenesis inhibitors in daily care products and professional treatments.  This family of ingredients helps to stop the chain reaction that ends in melanin deposition. Melanogenesis inhibitors are especially important for those who are genetically predisposed to hyperpigmentation. It is wise for these genetically predisposed clients to use a product daily that contains gentle melanogenesis inhibitors to stave off any future discoloration, even after success has been achieved with their treatment.
  
  Some common and effective melanogenesis-inhibiting ingredients are:  hydroquinone, kojic acid, lactic acid, ascorbic acid, retinol, azelaic acid, arbutin, rumex extracts, morus bombycis root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine.
  
  
• Protect from UV exposure:  Everyone should be using a broad-spectrum SPF of 15 or greater every day on any exposed skin.  This is particularly important for those trying to rid themselves of hyperpigmentation.  If the skin is exposed to UV rays on a daily basis the process of evening the complexion will be slowed, if not halted.  You should always use products that offer protection from long an short wave UVA rays as well as UVB rays.  PCA products offer both UVA and UVB protection.  Always allow sun protection to absorb 20 minutes before to exposure. Reapply after two hours of sun exposure and repeat every two hours as needed.