Causes and Cures for Hyperpigmentation

Types and causes of hyperpigmentation:

• UV-Induced Hyperpigmentation:  Can be caused by overexposure to sun, tanning beds, fluorescent and ambient lighting.  This type of hyperpigmentation usually presents as diffuse spots or macules that are evenly distributed around the face.
  
  
• Hormonally Induced Hyperpigmentation:  Any hormone fluctuations can induce hyperpigmentation.  Greek for "a black spot", melasma or pregnancy mask, is commonly associated with a fluctuation of hormones (pregnancy, oral contraceptives, thyroid dysfunction, menopause or hormone replacement therapy) and will worsen with UV exposure.  It appears as large patches with jagged borders typically around the jaw line, upper lip, cheeks and forehead.
  
  
• Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation:  Pigment deposited as a result of surface irritation, inflammation and/or abrasion of the epidermis.  It is characterized by darkened areas of the sites of the trauma.  Some common causes of this type of hyperpigmentation are:  acne, dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, bug bites, ingrown hairs from shaving or an overall darkening of the shaved area, flexural friction (darkening of knees and elbows), clothing friction (associated with ill-fitting undergarments) and allergies (caused by manipulations of the nose, which result in a line of pigment across the bridge of the nose).
  

Steps for lifting hyperpigmentation:

• Gentle exfoliation:  The closer pigment lies to the surface of the skin, the darker it appears to the naked eye.  Many are fooled into thinking that the problem has been corrected after one treatment of microdermabrasion or one superficial peel, because pigment will appear lighter to the naked eye.  With natural cell turnover, it is only a matter of time before this pigment will rise to the surface and redeposit, making the area dark once again.  Using gentle peeling agents that do not cause undue trauma to the skin in conjunction with melanogenesis inhibitors is a more effective treatment path than simple exfoliation.
  
  
• Increase cell turnover:  It is helpful to use topical agents that help to increase the skin cell turnover rate.  A group of ingredients that are quite effective at this are the retinoids.  This family of vitamin A derivatives helps to increase cellular proliferation and turnover, bringing healthy cells to the surface more quickly.  Some of the more popular retinoids (e.g. Retin-A®) can be irritating to some skin types and actually create more hyperpigmentation. A safer bet is retinol as it is a gentler vitamin A derivative that is very effective, yet non-irritating at lower percentages.  Using a daily care product with low level retinol is very helpful in the battle against hyperpigmentation.  The use of superficial peels helps to not only remove the darkened surface cells, but also allows for better skin function and improved cell turnover rates.
  
  
• Inhibit Melanogenesis:  It is recommended to use melanogenesis inhibitors in daily care products and professional treatments.  This family of ingredients helps to stop the chain reaction that ends in melanin deposition. Melanogenesis inhibitors are especially important for those who are genetically predisposed to hyperpigmentation. It is wise for these genetically predisposed clients to use a product daily that contains gentle melanogenesis inhibitors to stave off any future discoloration, even after success has been achieved with their treatment.
  
  Some common and effective melanogenesis-inhibiting ingredients are:  hydroquinone, kojic acid, lactic acid, ascorbic acid, retinol, azelaic acid, arbutin, rumex extracts, morus bombycis root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine.
  
  
• Protect from UV exposure:  Everyone should be using a broad-spectrum SPF of 15 or greater every day on any exposed skin.  This is particularly important for those trying to rid themselves of hyperpigmentation.  If the skin is exposed to UV rays on a daily basis the process of evening the complexion will be slowed, if not halted.  You should always use products that offer protection from long an short wave UVA rays as well as UVB rays.  PCA products offer both UVA and UVB protection.  Always allow sun protection to absorb 20 minutes before to exposure. Reapply after two hours of sun exposure and repeat every two hours as needed.